Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23
  1. #1
    themadhabber started this thread.
    SMF Badges of Honor

    Member since
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Trying to get the copper from inside this jacuzzi motor [pics]

    Took apart a car starter just prior to this with only a LITTLE amount of colourful language, but this thing has got me using an entire dictionary of colourful language.

    The copper wire is almost molded together by some kind of glue substance and tied with rope, it then goes through metal tube looking things and out the other side into another hard coil. Any advice on how to get this blasted stuff out?



    I'm trying to upload pictures or link pictures but it's not letting me for some reason. If the admin could allow me to post pictures or links that would be great.

    hxxp://i45.tinypic.com/jjqzyg.jpg replace the XX with TT


  2. #2
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Bear for This Post:


  4. #3
    Abuilder's Avatar
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Apr 2012
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    436
    Thanks
    228
    Thanked 487 Times in 251 Posts
    themadhabber
    You need to get the stator out of that outer shell first. Cut a groove in it from end to end, then wedge the shell apart and the stator should fall out fairly easy.
    Stator - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Abuilder for This Post:


  6. #4
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    2,702
    Thanks
    2,237
    Thanked 2,352 Times in 1,014 Posts
    Yes, slice it open like Abuilder said.


    As for the rest...


  7. The Following 3 Users say Thank You for This Post by IdahoScrapper:


  8. #5
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    What do you do with the rotors?

  9. #6
    Abuilder's Avatar
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Apr 2012
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    436
    Thanks
    228
    Thanked 487 Times in 251 Posts

  10. #7
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    2,702
    Thanks
    2,237
    Thanked 2,352 Times in 1,014 Posts
    If I have a heavy pile going, it goes in there, otherwise it goes into light/shred since I usually have a pile of that going...

  11. #8
    themadhabber started this thread.
    SMF Badges of Honor

    Member since
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Thanks for all the replies guys!

    So if I don't exactly have the grinder in the video that was linked is there any other method of getting it out or is that one of those tools that I'm probably going to need if I'm going to continue doing this in the future.

    I was thinking of snipping everything from the top and pushing them through much like he did without the grinder but I think that would take a very long time. I'm going to see what I can do in the morning.

    I also have a transmission out of a mustang and a V8 engine and other car parts. If you guys don't know the back story I made a thread the other day with the details of this house clearing I'm doing. There is a lot of stuff here.

    Went to my first scrap run this afternoon. Had 18lbs of copper, 13lbs of brass and a few hundred pounds of mixed metals...only got $81.43 out of it. So I made it my duty to really dig through everything I have and strip it of all the copper/brass/aluminum etc instead of lumping it all as mixed metal. I probably made a pricey mistake, haha.

  12. #9
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    Some people cut the end wires with a wood chisel, I did it too on a couple aluminum ones. I been using an old 10" miter saw with a metal blade for most of them

  13. #10
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    2,702
    Thanks
    2,237
    Thanked 2,352 Times in 1,014 Posts
    I believe freonjoe runs his through a table saw. I use a 4 1/2 inch cutoff, what it doesn't cut I finish up with wire cutters. I should get a bigger cutoff and slice clean all the way around it.

    Some use a sawzall. I haven't had any luck with that, it catches the wires and makes a mess. I prefer it stay together for the most part.

  14. #11
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    If I had to choose between using the miter saw or the table saw I'd go with the miter. The table saw, unless you made a special jig of some sort, would be taking bigger chances, with a lot of loose stuff that could get criss crossed and jammed. With the miter saw, which still is dangerous enough on this stuff, at least you have the backstop to hold it steady against, while moving the blade straight down through the metal. Actually I do have a choice, but choose using the miter saw instead of a table, because of the greater control you have in holding the piece being cut aligned with the blade

  15. #12
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    2,702
    Thanks
    2,237
    Thanked 2,352 Times in 1,014 Posts
    I agree. Miter/chop saw is/should be safer. In addition the blade is pulling away from you.

    I could be wrong too, but I was sure he said he used a table saw.

    Mines a 10". Wonder how much more I'd gain if I had a 14" saw. I get some big motors at times.

  16. #13
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    You'd get a great bit more, possibly up to 4" more? I cut firewood on mine for several years when I had no chainsaw(dam that things been through hel! ; ) and some of it was 6 to 8", I'd just cut one way far as it would go, turn the log and cut again, sometimes cutting from 3 angles to get through one

  17. #14
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoScrapper View Post
    Wonder how much more I'd gain if I had a 14" saw. I get some big motors at times.
    Actually if you want to buy a tool ready made for just such an occasion, I'd suggest an 18" band saw

    Hmmm, I went and looked up the little Milwaukee jobber one, I though them things had more clearance than that! I still think a bandsaw would work best, if you could get a big floor model and set it up for this purpose. It wouldn't be hard to put a table to hold the bigger stuff as well as the smaller ones, and you might accidently run across one in scrap from a machine or wood shop
    Last edited by Bear; 06-12-2012 at 02:16 AM. Reason: because i wanted to ; ) lol

  18. #15
    SuperDave's Avatar
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    May 2012
    Location
    Usa
    Posts
    448
    Thanks
    526
    Thanked 278 Times in 170 Posts
    The sump pump I did recently looked alot like this. Put it into the vise, cut one side with a pair of side cutters, a little at a time.
    Then flip it over in the vise and pull/pry with a pail of channel locks. Comes right out. Dont have to mess with the casing.
    For ppl. with a limited assortment of tools...

  19. The Following 2 Users say Thank You for This Post by SuperDave:


  20. #16
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2011
    Location
    boise, ID
    Posts
    1,605
    Thanks
    469
    Thanked 1,462 Times in 668 Posts
    I've tried using a band saw but even with the finest metal blades I could find it would still catch on the wires and make a mess. When I'm using the tablesaw, I stand behind it and pull the winding core towards me.

  21. The Following 2 Users say Thank You for This Post by freonjoe:


  22. #17
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    Thanks Joe, I thought it woulda cut smoother. Made a big mess out of one with a reciprocating sawzall, had little copper wires flying everywhere

  23. #18
    SMF Badges of Honor



    Member since
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    5,728
    Thanks
    6,814
    Thanked 3,464 Times in 1,989 Posts
    Do you have a jig for the tablesaw? Those slides, it might be possible to screw a thin sheet steel plate onto, which would hold stops or clamps, and hold the stator square to the blade. Or would that even be worth messing with, the way you do it? I know you've done a lot of them

  24. #19
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Nov 2011
    Location
    boise, ID
    Posts
    1,605
    Thanks
    469
    Thanked 1,462 Times in 668 Posts
    Bear, I put the blade all the way up and then pull the winding core towards me lining it up with the edge of the steel core. When I get a little less than half way up on the blade, I rotate the winding core towards me following the steel edge of the core. That way all the copper dust ends up on the ground rather than on me.

  25. The Following User Says Thank You to freonjoe for This Post:


  26. #20
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    218
    Thanks
    130
    Thanked 158 Times in 60 Posts
    I have a used a bandsaw at great length.Far from the cats meow.Bought a blade from off the Internet and have cut roughly 125 plus stators and still cutting but must feed through saw slowly.Still have a few that "hair up"and have not figured that out.I have wondered about the wire having a softer temper to it.I will be trying Freons method in the future.Read above someone was asking about rotors as I have sold them as alum. breakage.Recieved 18-28 cents a pound.Love those motors!


  27. Similar threads on the Scrap Metal Forum

    1. Replies: 51
      Last Post: 02-14-2020, 08:08 AM
    2. do old diesel generators have copper inside?
      By mrvictor1 in forum Dismantling, Breaking Down & Maximizing Scrap
      Replies: 4
      Last Post: 05-31-2012, 01:57 PM
    3. Spa motor copper
      By softride in forum Scrap Metal Tips and Advice
      Replies: 6
      Last Post: 04-02-2012, 01:36 PM
    4. electric motor copper
      By devo in forum Scrap Metal Questions and Answers
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 02-10-2012, 11:46 PM
    5. Electric Motor Copper Windings
      By Pronto Hauling in forum Dismantling, Breaking Down & Maximizing Scrap
      Replies: 14
      Last Post: 12-01-2011, 08:14 PM

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

 
Browse the Most Recent Threads
On SMF In THIS CATEGORY.





OR

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

The Scrap Metal Forum

    The Scrap Metal Forum is the #1 scrap metal recycling community in the world. Here we talk about the scrap metal business, making money, where we connect with other scrappers, scrap yards and more.

SMF on Facebook and Twitter

Twitter Facebook